Sensitive Skin Protocol

This protocol is for people whose skin regularly reacts to products that most people tolerate — stinging, burning, redness, tightness, or flushing with cleansers, moisturisers, or sunscreens. Sensitive skin can be a baseline skin type or the result of barrier damage from over-exfoliation, retinoid overuse, or environmental stress.

Important distinction: If your skin is newly sensitive after introducing actives, see the Barrier Repair Protocol first. That protocol focuses on recovery. This one is for people who are chronically reactive and need a long-term strategy.

• Fragrance-free everything. Fragrance (including "natural" essential oils like lavender, tea tree, eucalyptus) is the most common cause of cosmetic contact dermatitis.
• Short ingredient lists. More ingredients means more potential triggers. Choose products with 10–15 ingredients over those with 30+.
• Patch test every new product. Apply a small amount behind your ear or on your inner forearm for 48 hours before facial use.
• One new product at a time. Wait 2 weeks between introductions so you can identify the cause if a reaction occurs.

Only consider adding actives after your baseline routine has been comfortable for at least 4 weeks with no stinging, burning, or redness. Then introduce one at a time, starting with the gentlest options:

Tier 1 — Safest first introductions:

• Niacinamide 4–5% — The gentlest effective active. Barrier support, mild oil control, anti-inflammatory. Start 3x per week.
• Centella asiatica (cica) — Calming, wound-healing support. Very well tolerated.

Tier 2 — After 8+ weeks of stability:

• Azelaic acid 10% — The most tolerable active for pigmentation and acne. Start 2x per week on dry skin.
• Alpha arbutin 1–2% — Gentle brightening with minimal irritation risk.

Tier 3 — Approach with caution (12+ weeks of stability):

• Retinal (retinaldehyde) 0.025–0.05% — If you want retinoid benefits, retinal may be better tolerated than retinol. Start once per week. The sandwich method (moisturiser → retinal → moisturiser) reduces irritation.
• Mandelic acid 5% — The gentlest AHA. Larger molecular size means slower, less irritating penetration. Once per week maximum initially.

• Omega-3 (1–2g EPA+DHA daily) — Supports skin barrier lipid composition from the inside. Addresses systemic inflammation that contributes to reactivity.
• Vitamin D (1,000–2,000 IU daily) — Supports keratinocyte differentiation and barrier formation. Particularly important if you wear daily sunscreen.
• Magnesium glycinate (200–400mg before bed) — Sleep quality directly affects barrier recovery. Stress reduction is a meaningful skin intervention for sensitive types.

• Fragrance (including essential oils — lavender, tea tree, peppermint, citrus oils)
• Denatured alcohol (alcohol denat., SD alcohol) in high amounts
• Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) — a harsh surfactant found in many foaming cleansers
• High-concentration actives — avoid 10%+ niacinamide, 15%+ vitamin C, high-strength AHAs
• Physical scrubs — microbeads, walnut shell, sugar scrubs. Mechanical exfoliation is too aggressive.
• Witch hazel — despite marketing as "soothing," it is astringent and can worsen sensitivity

Weeks 1–4: Baseline routine establishes comfort. Stinging and reactivity should reduce as barrier strengthens.

Weeks 4–8: Skin should feel consistently calmer. Begin considering Tier 1 active introduction if desired.

Months 3–6: Gradually expand routine complexity if tolerated. Some people find their optimal routine is the baseline — that is perfectly fine.

Ongoing: Sensitive skin is often a permanent tendency, not a temporary phase. The goal is a stable, comfortable routine that you can maintain indefinitely.