Botanical / Calming

Centella Asiatica (Cica)

Centella asiatica extract and its active compounds (madecassoside, asiaticoside, asiatic acid, madecassic acid) have moderate evidence for wound healing, barrier repair, and anti-inflammatory effects. It is one of the best-tolerated calming ingredients available.

topicalbarrier supportcalmingwound healing

Moderate Evidence

Last reviewed: March 2026 · Our methodology

What It Does

Centella asiatica contains four key active triterpenoid compounds: madecassoside, asiaticoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid. These compounds stimulate collagen I and III synthesis, promote fibroblast proliferation, reduce inflammatory cytokine production (IL-1β, TNF-α), and enhance wound healing by accelerating re-epithelialisation.

In skincare, centella and its derivatives are used primarily for their calming and barrier-supporting properties. The ingredient has a long history in traditional Asian medicine (where it is known as “tiger grass” — reportedly used by tigers to heal wounds) and has gained substantial popularity in Korean skincare (K-beauty) as “cica.”

Best Use Cases

Barrier repair after over-exfoliation or retinoid irritation
Calming sensitised, reactive skin
Post-procedure recovery (after laser, peels, microneedling)
Inflammatory skin conditions (mild eczema, dermatitis)
General anti-inflammatory support

Who May Benefit Most

People with sensitised or irritated skin, those recovering from over-exfoliation, retinoid users experiencing irritation, and anyone undergoing cosmetic procedures who needs to support skin recovery. Universally well tolerated.

Cautions

Extremely well tolerated. Allergic reactions are very rare. Some products marketed as ‘cica’ contain additional ingredients that may cause irritation — check the full ingredient list, not just the marketing. Centella itself is one of the gentlest actives available.

Common Mistakes

Expecting strong active effects (brightening, wrinkle reduction) — centella is a calming and repair ingredient, not an active treatment
Not distinguishing between whole centella extract and specific isolated compounds (madecassoside, TECA)
Assuming all 'cica' products are equivalent — formulations vary enormously
Using centella as a replacement for, rather than complement to, barrier lipids (ceramides)

Combines Well With

Ceramides (complementary barrier repair)
Niacinamide (both calming, different mechanisms)
Hyaluronic acid (hydration + calming)
Retinoids (centella helps manage retinoid irritation)
Post-exfoliation (AHA/BHA recovery support)

May Combine Poorly With

Rarely conflicts with anything — this is one of its key advantages

Realistic Timeline

Calming effects are often immediate or within days. Barrier repair support becomes apparent over 1–4 weeks. Collagen-stimulating effects (from asiaticoside) are slower and more subtle, building over months.

Disclaimer

Centella asiatica is a cosmetic ingredient. While it has wound-healing properties, it is not a substitute for medical wound care. For persistent skin conditions, consult a dermatologist.