Adapalene
Adapalene is a synthetic retinoid that selectively binds to RAR-beta and RAR-gamma receptors. It is more photostable than tretinoin, causes less irritation, and is now available over-the-counter at 0.1% in many countries. Strong evidence for acne; moderate evidence for photoageing.
What It Does
Adapalene normalises keratinocyte differentiation and reduces microcomedone formation, making it highly effective for both comedonal (blackheads, whiteheads) and inflammatory acne. Unlike tretinoin, which binds to all three RAR subtypes, adapalene is selective for RAR-beta and RAR-gamma — a selectivity that may explain its superior tolerability.
Key advantages over tretinoin: adapalene is photostable (does not degrade in UV light, so it can theoretically be used in the AM, though PM is still conventional), does not interact with benzoyl peroxide (unlike tretinoin which BP degrades), and has intrinsic anti-inflammatory properties.
For anti-ageing, adapalene has less evidence than tretinoin. Most anti-ageing retinoid research uses tretinoin or retinol. Adapalene’s primary strength is acne management.
Best Use Cases
- Comedonal acne (blackheads, closed comedones) — first-line treatment
- Inflammatory acne (papules, pustules)
- Acne maintenance after initial clearance
- People who found tretinoin or retinol too irritating
- Combination with benzoyl peroxide (adapalene + BP is one of the most studied acne combinations)
Who May Benefit Most
Cautions
Common Mistakes
- Using adapalene primarily for anti-ageing (tretinoin has stronger evidence for this purpose)
- Not giving it enough time — acne improvement takes 8–12 weeks
- Applying to damp skin (increases penetration and irritation)
- Combining with other irritants too early (AHA, BHA, vitamin C) during the adjustment period
- Not recognising that adapalene + benzoyl peroxide is the OTC gold standard for acne
Combines Well With
- Benzoyl peroxide (can be layered — adapalene is not degraded by BP, unlike tretinoin)
- Niacinamide (reduces irritation, supports barrier)
- Ceramide moisturisers (barrier support during retinoid adjustment)
- Sunscreen (essential)
May Combine Poorly With
- Other retinoids (never combine two retinoids)
- AHA/BHA in the same step during the adjustment period
- Drying cleansers or toners
Realistic Timeline
Adapalene 0.1% is available OTC in many countries. Adapalene 0.3% requires a prescription. Consult a dermatologist if acne does not improve after 12 weeks of consistent use.